VIBRANT AND SPICY. L'Estornell Organic is made entirely from Arbequina olives, the small, brown, glossy variety that are the pride of Catalonia. An organically produced oil, it is medium-weight, with a nutty aroma and a mildly peppery bite, superb drizzled over grilled vegetables or fish. Available for $25.99 for 750 milliliters at Sutton Place Gourmet (3201 New Mexico Ave. NW, 202-363-5800) and Dean & Deluca (3276 M St. NW, 800-925-7854, www.deandeluca.com). Another good Arbequina oil is Pons, which costs $24 for 475 milliliters at www.tienda.com -- a great resource for imported Spanish gourmet goods.

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